This past weekend was our 23rd Wedding Anniversary. Time truly has truly flown by fast. It is hard to believe that more than half of our married lives have been spent working inside the country of North Korea.

With summer approaching, we celebrated our anniversary by traveling along the East Coast of Korea. Beaches on the East Sea are typically more beautiful than the West Sea, and this is true both in the North and the South. As we drove up the peninsula, we ended up just south of the 38th Parallel. We could even see glimpses of the North’s famous Kumgang Mountain. Traffic signs left from the days when South Koreans toured the North’s side of the mountain made it clear that Kumgang Mountain was straight ahead.

Like its neighbor to the north, the East Coast in South Korea is bordered by various sea dikes. Lighthouses stand at the end of each dike to guide fishing boats safely into harbor. In the absence of harsh weather, the East Sea defines Korea as the “Land of the Morning Calm” with its gentle waves and flat seas.  

For this reason, our favorite place to go to get a little breather from work in North Korea was along the East Coast. And the best beaches and seafood were often found in the city of Wonsan. From Wonsan, less than two hours’ drive south was Kumgang Mountain. Multiple hiking trails made for a perfect weekend get-away, especially in early fall as the leaves turned brilliant colors of red, orange, and yellow.

One year three of our children attended the International Summer Youth Camp held for several weeks in Wonsan. Children from all around the world attended, including children from countries such as Russia, China, and Vietnam. Most of the children came in delegations, but our children were the only Americans present. As a result, they joined the delegation from Tanzania as they were the only other English-speakers attending. Camp activities included not only beach days filled with swimming and boating but also cooking contests and talent shows showcasing each of the delegation’s countries and cultures.

The two of us took advantage of camp by visiting the East Coast for a mid-camp reprieve. Although it was great to see how much fun our kids were having, our visit was really just an excuse to breathe in the fresh, salt air and taste the delicious, local seafood. A camp visit for a few, short hours was followed by a full afternoon at the beach! It was just the break we needed from full, busy workdays at the hospital in Pyongyang.

Like South Korea, our hotel in Wonsan was bordered by a sea dike. On each trip we make to the East Coast, we liked to wake up at dawn, walk the dike, and view the sunrise along the East Sea. These 5:30 A.M. strolls made for tiring days, but the sunrise view was well worth it.   

There is no question that the East Sea of Korea is a peaceful, scenic delight. But more than the serene landscape and seafood delicacies, what we miss most about North Korea is the people.

Our trips along the East Coast were always accompanied by our local counterparts. These fun beach days free from the stresses of typical workdays helped draw our relationships closer together. How are they faring in the midst of the pandemic and current economic hardships? Are they healthy? How are the doctors and patients at the hospital doing, we wonder?

As we, at Ignis Community, continue to provide humanitarian support in whatever ways we can from a distance, we can only hope and pray that someday soon we will be able to see them again face-to-face. For this reason, our recent anniversary weekend was less of a celebration and more of a walk down memory lane. As we cruised along Korea’s East Coast, it was the faces and names of these people that burned bright in our hearts and minds.